At What Point Can Braids Start to Do More Harm Than Good?

Dr. Kikam says that, when possible, it’s typically a good idea to avoid extensions altogether—or at least to use minimal additional hair. However, if you do decide to add a few bundles to your look, don’t ignore scalp irritation, and monitor for any redness that may appear. You should also ask your stylist to see which products they will be using in advance.

“Some people have allergic reactions to the synthetic hair fibers or hair products used in styling—it’s often referred to as ‘braid itch,’” explains Dr. Kikam. “This can lead to inflammation, resulting in redness, itching, and bumps.”

And in the event you feel extreme discomfort, the MD advises to take the hair down immediately instead of waiting for these symptoms to go away on their own.

If you feel uncomfortable during your appointment, leave

Learning to communicate your true feelings with a hairstylist can be difficult, especially for Black women who are often told that pain endurance is a sign of strength. Some may also feel guilty about leaving an appointment early; however, always remember that it is better to feel bad in the moment rather than feel worse later if you experience any form of hair or scalp damage that may or may not be reversible.

The impact hair and scalp damage can have on our mental health

There’s no question that, regardless of race, the state of our hair impacts our mental health. But for Black people, the implicit bias we face in schools and professional settings as a result of our natural textures can add another layer of anguish.

“Experiencing hair damage or hair loss from improper braiding techniques can take a toll on self-esteem and confidence,” explains Dr. Afiya Mbilishaka, PhD, a natural hair stylist, psychologist, and founder of PsychoHairapy—an educational service that aims to bridge the gap between mental health and hair care in the Black community.

While more contemporary research is lacking, the Good Hair study conducted by the Perception Institute in 2016 found that Black women tend to experience higher levels of anxiety when it comes to their hair in comparison to their white counterparts—and this can be exacerbated by hair loss.

Also, since traction alopecia is known to be a lifestyle condition rather than genetic ailment—meaning it comes as a result of poor styling techniques rather than being a part of our biological makeup—there can be an additional sense of guilt or responsibility associated with those who experience this form of hair loss. “Beyond physical symptoms such as pain, itching, and hair thinning, traction alopecia can result in emotional distress,” Dr. Mbilishaka shares. “In some cases, hair loss can even trigger depressive episodes and the onset of social anxiety.”

How to enjoy braids while keeping your natural hair and scalp healthy

Despite the potential drawbacks of braids, this is a styling technique that has been a staple in the global Black community for eons, so plaits aren’t going anywhere. But we do have to make sure we are vigilant about educating ourselves on proper styling and maintenance techniques to ensure they serve their purpose as protective styles rather than a source of hair or scalp damage.